Monday, February 16, 2009

Beer Review: Sierra Nevada Early Spring Beer (ESB)


In a world of mediocre beer driven by quantity-of-consumption, Sierra Nevada stands out as one of the finest micro-breweries with wide-scale distribution whose beer is driven by quality-of-consumption. Many people are skeptical about paying nine dollars for a six pack of beer when the same amount could get them twelve Natty Lights, but the justifications for taking the Beer High Road are many. In the first place, if temperance concerns you as it did our old friend Benjamin Franklin, and you would avoid "drinking yourself to dullness," buying nice brews is your answer. Theoretically you will drink slower when there is less to be had. Also, good brews have what is called "body," which I suppose is the opposite of Bud Light's acclaimed "drinkability," meaning they don't go down easy because their flavors require your full attention. Also, they are significantly more alcoholic. They sit heavier on the stomach unlike a Bud Light (which seems to disappear), like eating home-made rye instead of Wonder Bread. The catch is that a micro-brew requires the beer-drinker to become a beer-connoisseur, to develop a pallet, to approach a beer as you would approach a steak: it is not a tool to facilitate drunkenness, but the product of an artisan to be admired.

Obviously, this reviewer falls into the latter category of seemingly-snobbish beer drinkers. Really, though, it is no more snobbish to appreciate beer in its most intricate form than it is insane to sit down and drink 24 beers on purpose, as Americans often do, which is equivalent to 2640 calories.

So imagine the delight of being able to walk into a liquor store in Arkansas and have access to Sierra Nevada's ESB, a seasonal brew from California. In terms of Style, ESB is closely related to India Pale Ale (IPA): a darker, more malty version of a pale ale (often with nothing pale about it). According to the bottle, "Our ESB combines the best of English tradition with West Coast style. A blend of malts featuring British-grown Maris Otter is balanced with the earthy spiciness of hand-selected English and US hops. The ale is left unfiltered, which enhances mouthfeel and hop aroma creating a slightly reddish-copper hue." To begin with, who knew "mouthfeel" is a word? Secondly, they knew we wouldn't know what "Maris Otter" is, but it doesn't sound like a plant.

However, "reddish copper hue" is a good way to describe ESB's color. ESB has a respectable amount of carbonation, as a bottled pale ale should. Ideally, the beer will have a head on it of about half an inch, more than this reviewers had.

Interjection: Freshness, as a category, is always underestimated when beer or other contraband is evaluated, and therefore one negative about being in Arkansas, for example, is that shipping the brew here takes enough time for freshness to wane.

Flavor-wise, this beer is intense. On the 10-point scale, its bitterness alone elevates it to at least an 8.0 in laymans terms (if we call Bud Light a 4.0). In technical terms, Sierra Nevada attributes ESB 45-46 "bitterness units" (yes, someone actually invented the "bitterness unit;" why not just use the 10-point scale?). Of course, 46 IBUs is high, surpassing most IPAs (LOL on the use of acronyms in that last sentence). Bitterness does not completely overwhelm the experience, though. ESB has a pleasant, if not sweet aftertaste. This reviewer picked up fruity, citrus flavors as well as toasted malty flavors (if you don't know what a "toasty" flavor is, try New Belgium's Fat Tire). Overall, a complex and manly beer. A worthy adversary that earns my $8.99.

I wouldn't recommend drinking all six of these bad boys in one night, as they have an alcohol content of 5.9%. Bud Light is down around 4.2%. "What difference does 1.7% make?" you ask? It's enough to make you re-evaluate the integrity of your stomach. ESB is not the kind of a beer you pound.

Overall, ESB receives a 7.7 on the Exacerbater 10-point Scale. It's a beer intended to herald the coming of early Spring with a extra-bitter flavor, and it generally accomplishes its purpose. Although, one question is: why is Sierra Nevada already shipping early Spring beer in the second week of February? Also, is this beer so bitter that it lacks individuality?

*A great resource in beer-analysis is any edition of Christopher Finch's A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best Beer. The man has done his homework and also has a large body of personal experience. I know: what a job. Wouldn't we all like to drink beer and write about it for a living?

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